INVENT PEACE !

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Revive Li-Ion Batteries , Ridgid 18v power tools 18650 3.7 volt

  I was experimenting with a bad Ridgid power powerpack for the ridgid handheld cordless 18v types:  (NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY & ALL damage or any & all injuries ). 

Basic method Summary:  Check all voltage of all individual cells, make sure they are balanced "Equal Voltage" within a tenth of a volt or so not under load (NL), charge up individually the lower v ones to approx 60% of max voltage and discharge individually the ones that are too high to same 60% level.. now the charger "may" work "more" normally again as below (I used 2.3v for the ridgid individual cells, really 18650 cells). Remove internal "whisker" shorts by over-volt with twice normal V three times.

 Proceed at your own risk. 

1. It would only charge to 2 bars and would only run drill for 2 minutes (NL); sad. 

2.  I used a dremel to grind off the little tit on inside of the star screws and got the upper casing off, then by prying outward on the side pieces the sides came off easily and I was able to see the ends of 5 li-ion cells apparently 3.7v 18650 types? batteries.   I checked the individual cell voltages (NL) and noticed they were all high enough but a couple were too high close to or exceeding 4v.    

 DO NOT drain V too low as it could cause total failure?  Be Careful not to overheat anything and wear safety glasses too.  Ez method is to use small magnets to connect alligator clips to the ends for ez connect/disconnect. 

2b:  I then used 2 good packs in series for total 40v (probably 1 pack at 20v is better and safer) and tapped voltage to each individual cell several times to hopefully blow away any "whiskers" that may have grown inside creating small shorts; after this I tried drain/recharge again but with "no" improvement.   COVER YOUR EYES as you should see a blue spark for each of 3 or 4 taps (did not disconnect at all, just be sure to get polarity right ( + to +  & - to - ) )  **        ie Don't use 40v on a 1.5v cell, it will damage it, better/safer to use just 3x or approx 5v to dissolve "whisker" shorts inside 1.5v cell. 

2c.  I the ran the pack down using the drill to where it cut off again after 2 min. No improvement noted, Sos. 

3. Then I drained the 2 cells that were reading high at approx 4v  further individually (using 4-5 ohm 20w resistor) until all would settle back up to approx 2.3v  (some had to go to 0.7v  several times before they would stop at 2.3v  (NL)).   IF you notice anything overheating, stop and let it cool down, maybe use a higher ohm resistor and/or higher watt resistor. 

3b. I also noticed the 5th battery was down to 1.7v and so I did use the 2 good drill packs in series again @ the 41v until it was approx 2.3v (NL), Again blue spark, cover eyes. 

4.  After all this it is now charging more normally* for 30 minutes vs 3 minutes before and noticed the pack was getting warm, so took it off charger to cool down then finish charging

 later.   *(It went normally from 1 to 2 to 3 to 4 bars and was still blinking 4 bars on charger when after 30 mins it was warm and I took it off).  

5.  After 30 minutes it was cool again, and I put it back on charger, initially it did not take, but then after a couple tries it did start to charge, stayed blinking on 4 bars for another 15+ minutes now it has 4 bars and charger switched off normally; pack tot V was 20.1 v at this point and each cell was 4v or 4.1v (good).   

6. Testing:  I drove 14  2.5" deck screws fully into two 2x4's and retracted all 14  until I got 2 bars on the light bar (not bad for a formerly dead pack).    Pack was quit warm after this workout; Voltage for the 2 bar state was 3.7v individually for all 5 cells (no Load). 

7. Recharge Pack:  It started on 3 bars (must have crept up to 3 bars) and blinking on 4 bars, seemed to charge normally to 4 bars  for 15-20 minutes.  Be careful , a hard workout heats it up, and a quick charge heats it more. Let it cool between workout and charging if at all possible; don't let it go to 1 bar, recharge at 2 bars to extend life of battery. 

   Not saying this is foolproof but it may be a way to extend the life of expensive battery packs if you got time or desperate.  "Probably" May work for other li-ion batteries as well.  

IF YOU LIKE THIS please take a look at my Patent under "Battery Saver" link on the right sidebar of this web page; yes it really works, and especially well with alkaline cells, IMHO since its so cheap and so few parts, and so easy to make/install in any device, it should be in every last battery operated device ever made as it can be the difference between happy and alive or sad or dead:  difference between Blue Ribbon and "No" ribbon. 

** This over-voltage 3-4 tap voltage spike method to dissolve internal "whiskers" has been rumored to work for Ni-cad & PbA cells too; be careful not to over do it. 

Gas cap leaking, vent hole, spitting gas out gas cap, briggs, tecumseh, power mate generator, lawn mower, small engine.

SOLVED:  Vibration in gas tank causing seepage out of gas cap vent.  RESONANT Frequency (vibration).   Gas cap leaking, vent hole, spitting gas out gas cap, briggs, tecumseh, power mate generator, lawn mower, small engine.    Need BAFFLES inside tanke, but what, how, to make them, **   

(Quick Note:  the spiral hose baffle idea did work just enough to tame the fierce and violent agitation of the gasoline in the tank which was spitting it out the vent hole in the gas cap (even though the generator appeared to have only normal vibration it must have hit coincidentally the resonant frequency which makes it most violent creating the gasoline "water" spouts that cause the seepage out the cap vent ;   I use two 2 foot lengths of the blue hard plastic electrical conduit with ribs (one was not enough),  I may add a third, also its important to get the tubing/conduit directly below the gas cap to break up the fiercely vibrating gasoline ; its probably worth mentioning that this "Power Mate Coleman" generator gas tank is not from briggs and stratton but the motor is Briggs & Stratton 3.5 HP.   So it goes... the using of a non B&S gas tank accidentaly created a resonant freq situation which resulted in gas venting out gas cap.  

My problem is with coleman powermate gas tank agitation at jus the right frequency to cause water spouts (gas spouts really) inside the tank which in turn causes gas to seep out of vent hole... really I ran the generator without the gas cap on and it was like a blizzard of spitting gas coming up quite violently.   SO... after replacing gas line, filter, installing 1 way check valve in gas line, gas cap, etc.  i realized its just hitting the "Resonant Frequency " for that tank size/shape and probably only BAFFLES will solve this BAFFLING probem (lol).   I'm trying to think what to use for baffles that are uninstallable in case they don't work well,,  maybe 1or 2" sections of 3/4" PVC?  2 liter bottle caps.  they must not block the fuel outlet in bottom of tank.    OR perhaps a plastic tubing perhaps 2 feet long coiled in a spiral inside the tank would deflect the resonant waves into a non-resonant patter preventing the gas spouts from popping up with the vibration of the motor.  (all this seems unlikely but believe me its happening). 

on and on... life goes on... never thought this would happen .   * Resonant frequency is the freq that oscillates just right to cause a big wave build up for example that would break a wine glass when the opera singer hits just the right note (frequency) that vibrates the glass to build up a wave that breaks the glass (has to be crystal glass of course).   In physics, resonance is a phenomenon in which a vibrating system or external force drives another system to oscillate with greater amplitude at specific frequencies. Frequencies at which the response amplitude is a relative maximum are known as the system's resonant frequencies or resonance frequencies.   IE Like when peacniks marching across a bridge hit the resonant vibration frequency and the bridge collapses. 

**  IMPORTANT:  for float plane type aircraft that take off and land on water, its very important to have baffles inside the air pylons that support the airplane (make it float) because if there are no bafffles inside the floats then when the plane takes off and levels off all the water inside the leaky floats rushes to the front and puts the plane in a FATAL nosedive... this has happened alot of times with tragic results. 

  Today is a good day to turn your life over to peace btw, you will have to eventually choose either the laws of man or the laws of God, why not avoid the last minute rush?  

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