Lets Save Ourselves !

100 YEAR R O O F ? Seamless Corner for chimneys and other locations where even a pinhole is not acceptable.

CORNER FLEX Chimney and other uses on corners where a solid one piece flashing is needed.       Walmart also has a version of this. 
A solid PERFECT CORNER 1 piece without pinhole:
  You can make your own PERFECT CORNER w/o Pinhole, higher and wider by taking a piece of Aluminum or copper or other flashing and fold it like a Japanese fan (many folds over each other, then fold it 90 deg and then expand it around the corner ; the outer ends will expand most while the closest to corner folds will expand the least).. hope this helps. Look at the pic below, then imagine taking a piece of AL flashing and putting it flat then fold it over and over on itself in perhaps 1/4" increments to make it as wide and as tall as you need, then fold it 90 deg vertically, then fold it again around the corner 90 deg the other way,,, see how the outside edge spreads the most to go around the "impossible" corner, now you have a 1 piece NO LEAK NO PINHOLE corner flashing. In fact you could make the whole chimney flashing sides top bottom and corners like this as one long wrap around the chimney piece for EZ installation on high pitch dangerous roofs where speed is critical to avoid exhaustion (yeah it gets tiring and hot very quickly when you have to spend 90% of your time and energy just staying up there. ). ADVICE: get a side cutter tool with concrete cutting wheel (4" wheel is more than enough), then cut a shallow 1/2" to no more than 3/4" cut once you have the flashing in place (bend over the last 1/2" of the flashing to form a lip ) cut a slot to exactly fit the "lip": put urethane caulk in the slot and then tap in the "lip" into the slot with a hammer, this will not leak ! ! This is part of the 100 year roof design, the other part of the 100 year roof design is the seamless metal so that not one screw is exposed to the rain at least from vertical direction; put any necessary screws ON TOP of any seams, NEVER in the valley of the metal roof panels. (why put a screw at the bottom of a river ? ) Wise ! Overlap everything as much as possible to avoid sideways rains from leaching back up under roof and flashings. Urethane every seam with at least 2 beads for double protection. Paint any screw heads and espec any exposed rubber or neoprene type washers to prevent them from drying out and cracking which would become a leak point. Use the widest roof gable peak they sell for more protection and make sure the roof closure foam is in place to prevent sideways rain intrusion. ELiminate any roof thru issues to make a quicker easier installation IE Put drain vent pipes elbowed with PVC around the side of the eave and then up, starp down with metal strap, this eliminates you having to do tedious vent boots and lots of exposed screws which eventually will leak. Take out roof mounted vents to make it EZ, then use side mounted on the ends of the attic fans or other vents. Remember you do NOT have to take off the old roofing to install metal, SO you get actually more insulation and your attic will be cooler anyway, lowers electric bill too. IMHO ; metal roof built this way will be nearly maintenance free for perhaps 100 years. if you occasionally inspect for loose anything (should be very rare). This 100 year design asks you also under flash in the olf fashioned way the area around chimneys and any other projections coming out of roof.
  So the real key is do the OVER & UNDER method so you get the advantage of a double coverage in the case where something may become deteriorated or damaged, you still got a leak proof chimney area. Amerimax Home Products CornerFlex Flashing      
2.  A Near Perfect Alternate method: (     is a link for an alternate "near perfect" corner but it will still have a pinhole at the very intersection corner where all 3 planes meet  )     GREAT VIDEO  AND METHOD;  But I had to realize that it was a double layer sheet folded in half , and the folded half is on the top when he starts.  it worked with paper, it also still has  a tiny pinhole where water "could " get in the corner, but that could be urethane caulked in the pinhole corner.   Could do this as well in copper, or aluminum, or other non corrosive rust proof  flashing material that was thin enough to bend easily.    DO NOT BEND MORE THAN 1 X each as it will weaken the metal and create a leak. the Ugly Underbelly of the Rigged ROOFING Industry ; build a 100 year roof !

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TIps for Roof fixes and Bewares of the rigged by design every 10-15 yr roof expense.

Roof Leaks? How to stop roof Leaks? 

CRAZY Roof Fix:  Use the midewcide in a good exterior OIL BASED paint (ie kilz) and simply paint your roof white with paint rollers, might take about 20-30 gal of paint but it will be white which reflects off heat (save 20% on AC bill so really you get the cost of the paint back = free over time),  it also will mildewproof which makes it alot more attractive than the eventual black that the mildew becomes over a few years ( in FL at least),  the Paint also fills in all the little tine pinhole leaks but just as important it prevents your shingles from drying out (losing their oil) which causes them to crack/peel/ leak more .  IMHO:  Asphalt shingle roofs leak from day one.. one guy at a hardware store even tried to tell me that you should plan to replace your roof every 10 years? thats absurd... ol fashion slate shingle roofs were so good that they are still on the roofs after 100 years and more "largely" because they were overlapped about 18 "  ( I know I've had houses with slate big shingles 2 ft x 2.5 ft).   So... the reality is that probably the shingle co' sharks (bean counters)  realized that the worse they make the shingles and the less overlap the faster the roof deck will go back and leak, and they will sell more shingles over time * (the 3 tab shingle is not overlapped enough and also has "water channel lines" in them ostensibly to help water drain off but reality is it lets water be closer to where it can get to a nail or staple and seep down into plywood. **

Crazy ROOF Fix 2: 

   Use the cheaper rolled roofing, its 3 ft wide and 36 ft long, its fast to install and because you are overlapping it 18 INCHES, it won't leak (put down first a good felt tarpaper, then the rolled roofing starting at eave, good to leave 4" beyond the eave so you can bend it down (after painting it will look acceptable) and nail it to side of house not on top where rain will be,  nail top edge of  to plywood, now put on next roll align to middle of first row so you get the 18" overlap (really you get 2 roofs that way in one operation), tar the where they two sections meet in the middle and nail only the top edge. IMHO this is the cheapest and much better rainproof than asphalt shingles, and its more wind resistant too because is bent over the side of the house 4 inches.  There should never be any exposes nail at all , and the closest nail to any possible water will be at the top of each row under the 18" overlap of each successive row.    You could stop here, But the best is to paint with a good exterior paint described above with the mildewcide additive .    If you like you can paint the "pretty" black lines on the roof so it appears as if its shingles for sales appeal.    The truth is , it wilil not leak, but the shingles lead from day 1, but the shingles look better , what to do?   (Get a metal roof* ) 


* Is it same for them coaxing Regulatory commissioners to make code for Metal Roofs so that the screws are in the valley (bottom of the little stream so to speak) instead of on top of the many ridges that are on most metal roofs?   That way they make short lifespan as the rubber washers on the roofs go bad (dry out & crack) and alot water is running on top of the screw so it seeps down the screw into the plywood and after 10 years the plywood falls apart and leaks on your ceiling, now you have to spend $$$$$ to get a new roof again.    Get longer screws instead of the 1.5" get the 2.5" and put them on top of the many little ridges, that way even when the little rubber washers do go bad only a direct hit from a raindrop would have any change at all of leaking into your valuable plywood deck !   Be sure to paint the head and washer especially to miniimize even more any possible leaking.     

SEAMLESS METAL IS BEST: with no screw heads showing at all,  but of course that is more money. 

Archetectural Shingles are not good either:  they say 40 year guaranteed but what they don't tell you that they that 40 years is "prorated" so when you have to re-roof after 10-20 years. the price will have risen so much that you'll pay the same and labor too (only 5 year labor warranty) .   So too are not overlapped enough and also the they are much more prone to being ripped off by high winds because of they stick up a bit rather than flat down on the surface plywood deck.  They also ONLY guarantee the labor for 5 years (what does that say? crummy product? they don't even have enough confidence to guarantee labor for 10 years? ) 

** Consider a paper towel , dip it into water and see how far it seeps UPWARDS against gravity for maybe 15 " ? yes its true,.. and that is straight up, what do you think happens on a slanted roof with a sideways rain, YES the SAD truth is that they asphalt shingle roof leaks from day 1... you just don't know it because it takes about 7-12 years for the plywood to fall apart enough to leak on your ceiling.   (don't believe? go look at 1 year old roofs from the underside (in the attic) with strong light, you'll see "stains" on the underside of the plywood in some places where its been already leaking (because of $$$$ future $ale$ )  .   A bad roof can ruin houses, families, cause divorces, contribute to bankruptcy, on and on.  and be unsafe to boot.   SO why doesn't anyone do anything... Public Reg Commissioners are not educated to these issues and the asphalt shingle co's like it that way.