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Screeching Squealing noise from under hood ac belt burning or other belt or pulley bad belt loose

Screeching Squealing burning belt smell when ac is on, no screech when ac off:   First we tightened the slightly loose belt, it seemed to fix it but only for short 30 minutes. 2.  Bought new belt 

and checked the idler / tension tightener pulley.  Take the pulley off if its easy... rotate it in your hand, if you feel any grinding or other frictional vibration, its the bearings bad.  Remove and replace  @ $14 ?   That fixed it for us.. BUT you may well want to get a very small (like eyeglass screw driver) and pry off the rubber seal from the new pulley, look at the ball bearings inside an see if there is lots of grease or just a small dab.. (they used to just put a small dab of grease which is WRONG and will require every year almost replacement of the pulley to eliminate the screech or squeal sound).  Put liberal amt of lithium grease or other appropriate grease in the bearings race, pack it in, put the rubber seal back on, it just snaps in place, wipe of excess grease,  Do this if possible for all the pulleys you can, espec when new.  You will save your self alot of heartache. Be sure not to damage the rubber seal when taking it off, use good eyeglasses and a very small pick or screwdriver that can slide down in between the metal of the pulley and the rubber seal.    I have done this after replacing idler and tensioner pulleys year after year for 3 years.   Finally I found the factory doesn't put in enough grease (YEAH ANOTHER IN  A LONG LINE OF BAD PARTS),   

      As for Tensioner Pulleys, really its way ahead to replace it every time you have it off, as they lose tension in the spring and no matter what you do, its not going to work after so many years in there, same for alternators (if even a little bit older), or really anything that is already off and just as easy to replace.. don't mind the cost too much as you are way ahead if you break down on a vacation , right ? 

2000 Caravan Voyager TIPS

Wiper intermittent delay not working and/or door locks and/or no heat;  possible Not starting, etc 

1. Chk battery connections etc   2.  Pull IOD fuse (memory) 10amp typically (front engine compartment fuse box).. wait 15 minutes, then replace wait overnight? (strange but it worked for us ?)

 Other non start fixes include bad MAP or other sensors or bad starting relay (cheak all fuses and all relays both in eng compartment and above drivers foot.  Strange

interdependence of circuits makes non obvious solutions ie Reset Wiper module fixed heater blower one time, another time replaced door lock fuse and heater blower started working : all of which speaks of a common probably ground problem?   *Disconnecting sensors makes the computer revert to a limp in' mode in which it will run to get you home but is not as efficient.   The BCM (Body Control Module) is integral to so much and share non-obvious ground connections so that it can affect even engine start conditions?   

 If that doesn't work try easy common grnd fix below:  

    IF you have 2 or more of these problems it may possibly be a common ground problem.   There is behind the heater controls a module

in a silver rectangular box (just undo 2 screw above and below radio and heater controls, take of panel, and unplug the 2 wire harness connectors

that are plugged into it.  )  Look for the 21 pin connector, examine all pins for browning or charring or melting (specifically pin 21 which is the on the

long end of the connector (think its the right hand lower one but look at both ends to be safe), if any pin is charred / brown / green oxidized then

clean it and the corresponding pin plug on the connector until bright and shiny, RETENSION the connector tangs inside with a strong needle so

 that when you plug it back in, it will be tight.   Do same for any other pins that may be charred or melted or brown or oxidized.  

   This pin 21 is a common ground that connects to the BCM (body control module and the heater and wiper controls so it can affect and cause

erratic behavior that many would say is a BCM problem $$.    So if this is it, it was free and easy.  

    IF this does Not solve the problems, (for 98-99 Caravan voyagermodels)  Look for a connection (G300?) that is under the drivers side door pylon (between the drivers door and the sliding door, behind the drivers seat to towards the outside of the car *(take off the drivers side metal strip where you step into the driver seat  and the pylon plastic cover , they snap

off or have screws).. you should see a common ground point with a "nut" that may have 3-6 wires connected there, Clean and 

tighten all of these wires *(some say this G300? connection ground point is central to almost every last thing in the whole car, even to engine area items? and some say

that  it is not obvious in the schematics and even harder to locate AND that it on some cars was "loose" if you can imagine that).  May save you alot

of time and money. 

For 2000 and other non-solutions, try to "Re-Seat"the BCM (take out BCM & Reinstall, or at least the connector harnesses (either 2 or 4 held by nuts that tighten the harness's down).

Look for charred / brown/tan/black terminals that look melted or stressed , clean and reinstall , repeat as the mere act of installing creates a friction on the terminals which

has a "cleaning" effect.  (see snowmobile fix google search)

Hosting Manager


CAR BATTERY DIES OVERNIGHT:    You may have a vampire drain condition going on;  GPS draws about 170 millamps  which is enough extra to drain your car battery over 1 night possibly enough to make it not start in the morning.  Unplug GPS and all other unnesessary   *(of course if you had the dirt cheap installed in your car , you'd be able to start the car anyway)

  TO isolate the circuit that is draining your car, get standard mulitmeter (volts amps ohms), put it on the 10 amp setting (or you'll damage your meter), take off negative battery cable on car battery and hook the ampmeter between the cable and the neg terminal on the battery itself,  get a fuse puller (or needle nose plyers ; be careful not to break fuses), and pull one at a time starting with lowest amp fuses first , when the amp reading falls below approx 50 millamps ( it will look like .05 amps on the meter), then you have found the circuit that  has the problem, now put fuse back in and check one by one each device that is on that fuse..    ours read .22amps which is 170 millamps too high until we unplugged the GPS>>

Other reasons that car batteries drain overnight can be:

1.  lights left on (obvious)  check all dome lights , glove box lights, rear door lights inside and outside .

2.  Faulty brake switch ,, occasional sticking can quickly drain a battery in a few hours, because the brake lights remain on.  Lights left on may be hard to see in the daylight.

3.  Ignition switch old and worn, some cars when you turn of the engine, some little dash lights may remain on, which means part of the system is still on, that can also drain you down over a few hours or overnight.

4. Short in heater motor.

You can get your car scanned by a garage (not the autoparts store type of free miniscan) this is the full scan on the expensive machine Probably cost you $20 for such a scan.

CAR HEATER WORKS POORLY OR NOT AT ALL:   *(for 96-2000 circa cars search "reset electronic heater module" in for 2000 caravan push rear wiper button and rear washer button together for 1 minute, lts will blink for 3 minutes, then it may just start working , worked for us in winter in motel). 


 HEATER/AC fan only works on HIGH/MAX?

First ck fuses, relays, etc in engine and underneath drivers dash area;  it could also be fan switch or bad fan motor, but more than likely its the FAN MOTOR RESISTER BLOCK (voltage divider), looks like just a rectangal with a 5 wire plug going into it (for 2000 Plymouth Voyager/Dodge Plymouth its located in engine compartment on passenger side firewall (behind the glove box).  Once you get it out below it will be about 4" x 4" x 1" and look like a mini micro space heater with coils.. most likely it will be corroded in places (the shortest coil has the greatest problems), or burnt thru... you can reconnect the battery to test the fan by shorting out the bad area with a screwdriver (be careful)... After determing that part is bad or good remember to disconnect the battery again to avoid damage to parts.            Cont Below....



 If you leave the electrical connector (pigtail) on the resistor block you can work the block from side to side and work it out of the rectangular slot,  you may bend one of the tabs slightly by doing so, but its  very tight ( poster said he gave blood doing it and considered a pry bar),    once out, remove electrical connector plug, and then examine resistor block in detail, (the shortest distance coil will probably be corroded (heat too much), and burned out. ... to replace block plug in electric first,, make sure no pins/blades are bent, and BE SURE TO TEST IF BEFORE REINSTALLING>> after you are sure you got all 5 fan speeds.. than put it back in.. (do not rebend tabs straight or it will be PITA to get it back in).. use two long screwdrivers or other long straight and thin tools to push back into the rectangular hole both sides thus rebending tabs that were bent on removal back straight to complete the installation)...   Beware, you may need to remove the connector tube from the union where the window washer hose goes up to the washer arms (blades).   You may even consider a very slight rounding of the corners of the back plate to get it go in even easier..  Best of Luck..  
UPDATE:  sometimes if the heater is blowing cold air (fan ok) but no heat, and the car is NOT overheating (running fine otherwise), you may need to reset the heater electronic control module, just push the upper and lower Rear Wiper Buttons together, the lights will blink and the heater door (under dash) will open and you get be very happy with the heat , Reason: the Heater and the Rear Wiper are controlled by same Electronic Module,  worked for us, . 
Car won't start or until several tries:

1st make sure battery cables and battery connections are tight and clean, next if you are getting cliking sound, its probably battery or bad ground connection, next if you are able to start but only after several tries, go to fuse box, find starter relay (about 1" x 1" x 1" black box, exchange it for one that is not critical such as cigarette lighter relay,  if problem is solved, simply get a new relay ( $20), it it still has problem start thinking bad starter or starter solenoid.  Good luck. (the relay seemed to solve our problem so far )